Zurich along the Limmat River |
We took a
short flight on a Bombardier-Q400, a 76-seater jet-prop “puddle-jumper” from the
Nuremberg airport to Zurich. It’s been a while since we’ve flown on anything
without the name Boeing or Airbus attached to it! Nice smooth ride on this
little guy, we might add. We were excited to visit this Swiss city for the
first time, but never expected to fall in love with it.
Zurich
Zurich’s
Altstadt (old city) lies along the Limmat River which flows into Lake Zurich.
Much like the Seine in Paris, the Limmat divides the old city in two with
several short but scenic bridges connecting the two sides. We had mostly
gorgeous weather with sunlight shimmering on the ever-present water.
Double-spired Grossmunster church |
Both sides of
the old city offer impressive churches as well as other antiquated and behemoth
structures. The Grossmunster is a monster-sized church
with two identical soaring spires. Directly across the river is a much more
sedate church called the Fraumunster which was originally an abbey for
aristocratic women. This church holds one of Zurich’s greatest treasures: five
stunning stained glass panels by Marc Chagall.
Chagall stained glass |
The stained
glass panels are typical Chagall works with bright colors and whimsical
figures. Such an expression of love and joy. What is truly amazing is that
Chagall never even attempted to work with stained glass until he was in his
seventies. These panels were installed when he was 83 (he lived to be 98).
A Canaletto view of Venice |
Speaking of
Chagall, we also spent several hours in the Kuntshaus, Zurich’s premier art museum.
One room held three of Monet’s oversized water lily paintings and another had
five Chagall’s.
Chagall's "Above Paris," one of Anne's favorites |
Including a painting called “Above Paris” that Anne wanted to
take home with her. Some paintings of other favorite artists were there also, such as Picasso, Van Gogh,
Matisse, Canaletto, and Guardi.
Bucolic backstreets of Zurich |
We explored
both sides of the Limmat River and were surprised by the peaceful, quiet backstreets
that felt more like rural passageways in small villages rather than routes thru
Switzerland’s largest city. These streets were often cobbled and limited to
pedestrian thoroughfare, making a stroll thru the Altstadt a fun adventure in Zurich.
Montmartre-like area of Zurich |
Anne’s
favorite part of the city was a hilly area on the west side of the Limmat, that
reminded her of Paris's Montmartre with its meandering lanes and old multi-story
buildings.
Fabulous view from the Lindenhof Plaza |
Frank and Anne headed up to Lindenhof for a finale sight, a large park high above the city with lots of Linden trees (naturlich) and fabulous views of the Limmat River and the city buildings below. All we needed was a bottle of wine, and we could have sat there for hours.
Vaduz Castle overlooking the town of Vaduz, Liechtenstein |
Liechtenstein
We took a day
trip to Vaduz, the capitol city of tiny, mountainous Liechtenstein. To be
honest, we made the trip mostly for the bragging rights. How many people make
it to Liechtenstein, right? Well, M&M beat us to it, so that was even more of an incentive to go - ha, ha. It turned out to be another really nice day trip. The weather was great, and the adventure was
exciting.
Liechtenstein
is located to the east of Switzerland, and occupies about 62 square miles of very
mountainous territory. This German-speaking principality has a population of a mere
37,000 people who have one of the highest standards of living in the world and an
unbelievable unemployment rate of just 1.5%!
There are more businesses in Liechtenstein than people.
Scenic Alps of Liechtenstein from vineyard below |
The train
ride from Zurich to a town called Sargans was exceptionally scenic. We followed
the edge of Lake Zurich and then wound our way up into the Alps. All of a
sudden, we were in “Heidi Country!” At Sargans, we left the train and took a 45-minute
bus ride into Vaduz. We were so proud to see our public transportation skills coming
back!
The city of
Vaduz is more modern than quaint, but it is perfectly situated in the upper Rhine Valley surrounded by soaring peaks. We ate a
wonderful lunch at Hotel Adler where Frank got to try the local brew and Anne
tasted her first Liechtenstein Pinto Noir. Both were excellent!
Frank with our hosts Barbara and Christophe at the Hofkellerei Winery |
We hiked out
of town a bit to the Hofkellerei,
a wine tasting room of the Princely Wine Cellars owned by the Liechtenstein Foundation. We had a great time here, tasting new and interesting wines and enjoying the hospitality of our hosts -- Barbara and Christophe. What fun people!
Pinot Noir grapes just waiting to be picked (or eaten -- yummy!) |
Afterwards, we walked through the vineyards, taking pictures of the grapes against the backdrop of the mountains and Schloss Vaduz (Vaduz Castle).
At the famous Sprungli choco shop |
Swiss Chocolate
Zurich is well-known for exquisite tasting chocolates, and great chocolate shops to boot. We, being the consummate global chocolate lovers that we are, needed to go on a walking expedition thru Zurich in search of the finest choco spots we could find. Two shops popped to the top of the list: "Sprungli" and "Teuscher" We did indeed locate them both and were not sorry that we spent time running them down.
Of course, we picked up an inordinate supply of their most savory, delectable chocolate bars and truffles to stock up our Pocono homestead back in Pennsylvania. We also grabbed a bag of champagne truffles at Teuschers that we promptly devoured on the fly as we sauntered the backwater cobble-stoned areas of Zurich.
Searching for the perfect chocolate |
Feeding some of the many swans along the Limmat River |
Summary
On a side
note, in southern Germany, where much of our travel took place, we found that
many places (restaurants especially) do not take American credit cards. Cash is
king and the main vehicle for purchase. In Switzerland, where all things seem
to be much more expensive, the credit card is welcome. So, if you are planning
an excursion to these areas, plan on having much cash on hand in Germany, and
not so much in Switzerland.
The lovely Fraumunster church |
That wraps up
our current European venture. We are so glad we did this and so relieved to see
that Europe is just as vibrant and wonderful as ever. We never felt any safety
concerns while there, despite the seemingly daily bad news concerning secure travel
to certain areas of Europe. Happy
travels to all, and we’ll see you next time on the road.
More pics:
Anne's mantra for Zurich! |
Sampling the wines of Liechtenstein |
On the Munster Platz in Zurich |
Wines of Liechtenstein |
Raclette (melted cheese and potatoes), a favorite dish in Zurich |
Zurich after dark |
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